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Tuesday, November 23, 2004

Volcanic Adventures

Dylan writes: So the plan was to climb up the highest active volcano in the world and we can at least say that we have done it. There is just no corrobrative proof that we actually made it to the top. Cotopaxi is 5,879 metres or there abouts and is deemed as an active volcano because nobody really knows when it is going to errupt again. We figured we would go up for the first days hike, but after seeing the photographs of the summit, and all the cool kit you get to wear I convinced Kat it would be a good idea to do the whole thing. After yet another grueling 4X4 drive, we set off on foot with full backpacks and much excitement. Within 20 steps we were exhausted and dripping with sweat. We still had another 20 minutes to go before reaching the refuge. We quickly remembered never to underestimate high altitude.

After dinner we tried to get some sleep, tricky at 7 p.m. and with a dorm of the rudest "fellow" climbers peeing all night. Nethier of us managed a wink, and by midnight we were pulling our wet clothes back on to begin the hike to the summit. We started pretty well, but it soon became apparent that climbing mountains is not as easy as the tour operator was lamely trying to convince us. Within two hours we were wondering if it was possible for anyone to make it at all. Our guide uttered the words Kat was waiting for, and I didnt want to hear, "its impossible tonight". Damn!

We (well I) was a bit saddened to hear the news as I really thought we could do it, but the guide continued to tell us that the snow was too deep and loose and it would only get steeper the higher we climbed. We hade made 5,300 meters up a 45 degree slope in drifting snow and cramp ons, we were exhausted, and it would take at least another 4 hours in harder conditions to reach the ice wall before the summit. We decided to call it a day (about 2.15 at night actually).

Going down was great fun, and I still couldnt believe we made it as far as we did. In the darkness we could make out the ice structures and glaciers that we had been too preoccupied to notice on the way up.

So although we didnt get to wear tweed and caps, I feel I can, in some way at least, sympathise with George Mallory (who I still believe made it to the top of Everest first). Why did we climb Cotopaxi? "Because it's there."


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The next day we made our way south to the town of BaƱos, a wonderful looking town surrounded by steep green cliffs and waterfalls and a very active volcano. On the outside it appears to offer so much, but for some reason we struggled to find anything to do. Perhaps we are running out of things left to try, perhaps we were just tired. However off road quad bike riding was perfect for me, so we hired one and headed for the active volcano Tungurahua. I dont think I will persuade Kat to come "quading" again with such ease in the future. We struggled to reach the summit this time as well, and had to give up when we reached warning signs and an absence of track.



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Now we are in Riobamba and I hear there is some decent downhill mountain biking and a pretty hairy rooftop train ride through the Andes to look forward to..........